If perfection existed, we would cease to push forward the current limits of what is impossible.
I reckon perfection is always relative, and it only exists for a brief moment, before it evaporates, replaced by the next perfection. If we choose to chase such a vaporous notion, we find it is like that imaginary pot of gold at the end of a rainbow; it is constantly an arm’s length out of reach. Such a view is particularly pertinent in an age where developments and innovations in technology are never-ending.
By Alexx Zarr
In Part 1 of this Blog I presented the complexities we face when we have to deal with almost infinite choices. If one combines this with the treadmill of ever-evolving and revolutionising technology, we have another factor that challenges our capacity to make smart decisions.
So, there is no perfect mountain bike (MTB). If you think you have found it, I bet it will be replaced by a different perfect one very soon. However, there can be a Best MTB.
Allow me to define ‘best’. Simply put, the best MTB is the one that suits you best. If it accommodates your needs, aspirations and budget, it is best for you, for now. If your needs, aspirations and or budget change then your best will change too.
The Niner RIP 9 RDO in Rally Blue that was selected as the best MTB on the planet at EuroBIke 2013 is sadly not the best, if it does not match your requirements. The best MTB should be the one under your bum.
In Part 1 I covered MTB frame variables. In this contribution I cover a collection of other components that collectively make up a Best Bike. I again apply the same approach as I did before, using the Niner RIP 9 RDO as the base for comparison.
1. The Fork
The Fork is generally regarded as part of the Frame, but is nonetheless a separate entity or component. Most Frames can accommodate a variety of Forks.
As you recall, the Niner is a Dual Suspension Trail-style Bike. That means it has a Fork that is ‘sprung’, it has suspension. Another way to describe it, is that it is not rigid, like a road bike. The Niner has a Rock Shox Revelation RCT3, Solo Air, with 130mm travel and compatible with a 15mm through axle. What a mouthful.
Alternative Forks could be different brands, different travel aspects (the range of movement up and down that the suspension accommodates), a single stanchion such as a Cannondale Lefty (as opposed to two), and carbon bodies versus alloy ones. There are also a variety of technology levels, price differences, and weight variables. As stated previously, there is a strong correlation between price and higher technology levels, including component material. Usually, carbon is lighter, but more expensive. Also, carbon ‘rides’ differently to a metal alloy.
Some Forks can be locked in or out, with some able to do so remotely from the handle-bars rather than the top of the Fork itself. There are also settings for speed of rebound, and damping control.
The Niner is a 29-inch frame so it will use a Fork designed for a larger Frame than 26-inch or 27.5-inch Frames.
Once again, your ‘perfect’ bike needs to be the one that suits your needs, aspirations and budget.
The second item on today’s menu is Wheels.
2. Wheels
In my example, a Wheel is comprised of (i) the Rim, and (ii) the Spokes that hold the rim to the Hub. Sometimes the Hub can be included as part of the Wheel, as can the Tyre. Inside the Hub there are bearings and the like (I am on shaky territory here, being a novice in the tech zone).
I shall cover the narrow definition. There are as many Rims as days of the past few years. Where to start? They come in a variety of sizes, widths, styles, materials, Spoke types and configurations. The Niner is fitted with American Classic All Mountain 29-inch Wheels, with Hubs accommodating 15mm front and 12mm rear through axels.
These Rims are made from an alloy, and are quite sturdy. Alternatives would be the two smaller sizes (not for the Niner, but in general), carbon or steel material, lighter Spokes and Rim beading for tubeless tyres. Carbon rims are light, flexible, easily damaged, and very costly.
If the Rim is not designed for tubeless tyres, then most newer rims can be retrofitted for running tubeless tyres with sealant.
If I listen to the conversations in my cycling groups, the wisdom is that after the best frame you can afford, Wheels are the next best item on your shopping list.
3. Hubs
The Hubs are the solid things in the centre of the Wheel. They have axels of some kind that run through the centre of the Hub to hold the Wheels to the Frame and Fork. The Hubs for the front and rear are not the same. The front one is, relatively, simpler and only needs to run freely as the Wheel turns. The rear Hub is larger and more complex as the drive-chain with gears (Cassette) is attached to the right-hand side of the Hub. The Hub needs to be able to ratchet so that the chain will turn the Wheel, and also freewheel when not peddling (if it is not a fixed Hub, which is a special type of Hub). The rear Hub costs more than a front Hub.
The Niner uses American Classic (AC) Hubs that are standard fit for the AC Rims.
As is the case for Rims and Spokes, there are myriad Hubs from many brands and a variety of kinds in terms of structure, style and function. Broadly, there are Hubs that are attached by two different types of axle arrangements. There is the so-called Quick-Release (QR) type and the ‘thru-axle’ (or ‘Maxle’) type.
Here is a basic explanation of the differences between the two: Video-QR-vs-Maxle; Comment: Thru-Axel-vs-QR.
While both types of axle perform the same function, the thru-axle type may provide greater stiffness between frame and wheels, and, perhaps, improved safety.
Inside the Hubs there are moving parts, including a series of bearings. The bearings provide the rotation function. Some Hubs are more water resistant than others are. Moisture and dirt in moving parts are not good!
There is no inherent difference between Hubs used for any size bike Frame and Wheels, but sturdier Hubs for 29-inch larger frame bikes would be preferable.
Weight may not be a major issue in the choice of Hubs, but Wheels as a whole (complete Wheel with all components, including tyres and sealant or tubes) are a major weight contributor, adding between 1.5kg to 2.5kg overall.
Next time around I shall finish off the last two items on a complete Wheel.
