There have been three previous parts to this series that deal with a basic appreciation of mountain bike (MTB) components and build. I have used the Niner RIP 9 RDO (2013 model) as the basis of the discussion. It was voted as the best MTB of 2013 at the EuroBike Expo. The components discussed today are found in the MTB cockpit.
By Alexx Zarr
What is in the Cockpit?
Can a mountain bike (MTB) have a cockpit? If it can, what is in this space? The use of this terminology certainly raises emotions. Just read some of the comments on the forum Bike Cockpit. I quite like the term as it gives a sense of the components of a bike that we use to control our ride ā gearing, manoeuvring and stopping.
I include the following comments under this caption: Bar, grips, stem, gear shifters, brake controls, and shock remote controls.
Our representative ābest MTB on the planetā is the Niner RIP 9 RDO, pictured. What do we find in its cockpit?
The bar is a Niner flat top RDO (carbon) with a length of 780mm. I reckon the three critical variables on a bar are:
(i) material ā either carbon or metal/alloy
(ii) length
(iii) shape.
There are limited material options, but a great many lengths and shapes. Carbon is mostly lighter. For some riders it provides more flex or damping, but is more expensive. With regard to durability, I have seen more aluminium bars break or snap than carbon ones (although far more bikes are fitted with the former!). However, in general, carbon does not do crashes well, so if youāre a regular crasher, go aluminium.
While bar length may be influenced by a riderās size (reach across left finger tips, across the chest, to right finger tips) and general feel preference, there are some sound principles to consider.
The taller the rider, the larger the bike will be, and subsequently the wider the bars should be. Although this is all relative, wider bars provide greater leverage, and thus more control, if that is what one cares for. Wider bars for a range of bike sizes would be between 550mm and 750mm. The Niner example has a 30mm wider bar than what may be considered standard. The reason for this is that the other factors influencing bar width are ride style; cross country, all mountain, downhill and so on. The RIP RDO is a Trail-style (All Mountain) bike. It may be preferred with a super wide bar.
The areas and trails one rides also influence bar width choice. If one rides tight technical trails that weave through trees, rocks and undergrowth, then slimmer bars may be preferable.
Wider bars also translate into shorter stems. There is a direct relationship between these two cockpit items. Unless one is still sorting out oneās ride position on the bike, material changes to the bar width without assessing stem width will change oneās ride position. Remember, always buy wider than you think you may need, and then cut back!
Bar shape, also referred to as up-sweep or rise and back-sweep, is as essential to performance and individuality as bar width. There are many shapes, but perhaps one can categorise them into two broad categories, namely, flat and riser bars. The Niner has a flat bar fitted. A riser bar has an elongated āUā shape in the centre, giving height to the outer bar areas where one holds. Riser bars allow one to rotate the bars in the stem to move them closer or further away, sweeping in or out towards the saddle. The comfort and leverage options change as the sweep is altered.
I have flat bars on two of my bikes and a low riser on my single speed (SS). I find that the latter option gives me greater leverage when standing, which one does a lot of on a SS!
Often forgotten items are part of a functional bar, namely, hand grips. These hand width items fit on the outer ends of the bars. They provide the substance that one holds onto. Grips come in many forms, from simple rubber, foam or silicone-based models that slide over the bars, to multi layered lock on versions and hand ergonomic shaped options. Prices range from about R100 to well over a R1,000 a set. I have found that silicone ESIgrips with a layer of (road-bike) handle bar or tennis racket tape works best for me.
Remember to plug the open bar ends with a bar plug. It prevents damage to the bar and to your hands and avoids collecting debris and moisture.
