When in Rome … do as Tim Noakes and Banters do

I always suspected it, now I have proof: in Italy, pizza and many pasta dishes were either invented for tourists or are from outside influences. This blog from Reuters looks at what’s in store for tourists to Rome culinary wise, and the way Romans really eat. I’s enough to warm the cockles of any serious travelling Banter’s heart with its emphasis on offal. Banters (if you’ve been inhabiting another planet) is the word for those who follow Banting, as low-carb, high-fat (LCHF) eating regimens are known in South Africa. Banting’s pioneer in SA is University of Cape Town emeritus professor Tim Noakes.

Tim Noakes
Prof Tim Noakes. Picture: courtesy of Noakes Foundation

Noakes is a huge fan of offal, which he recommends as a rich food for poor communities because it is nutrient-dense and cheap. I have to confess I’ve never eaten offal. The very thought of eating intestines is enough to make me gag. But it’s a delicacy for the Romans who eat in a way that is ‘nearly hidden from the tourist’, says the writer of this blog. Their meals are heavy on offal and first-course pasta dishes made from grains (wheat). Grains are one of Banting’s biggest no-no’s because of the insulin spikes they  cause, that raise blood sugar levels and up your risk of health issues such as obesity, diabetes and heart disease.

Banting has simple alternatives to spaghetti, other pastas and grains, among them ‘courgetti’ – spiralised courgettes that are easy enough to make at home with a cheap spiraliser device, or even just a potato peelers. For the time-poor, Woolworths offers courgetti as part of its ‘carb-clever’ range along with ‘cauli-rice’, another Banting staple made from grated cauliflower as an alternative to rice. Woolies continues steadfastly to refuse to acknowledge any inspiration from the Tim Noakes diet and his runaway best-selling book, The Real Meal Revolution, claiming that it’s against company policy to be associated with any particular diet. I’d say that’s rich, since the range clearly capitalises on the growing popularity of LCHF and Banting. Woolies probably just doesn’t want to have to pay Noakes any royalties for making money off his name. That’s probably just as well, since serious Banters will tell you that much of the Woolies carb-clever range isn’t so smart after all. Some products contain corn starch that doesn’t go down well with Banters. If you’re a Banter, or starting out on Banting, simply substitute courgetti for the rigatoni in the delicious recipe at the end of this blog. – Marika Sboros

By Clifford Wright

A statue in front of the San Pedro church, Rome.

(Reuters, Zester Daily) – Virtually everyone who has been to Italy has been to Rome, but not everyone who has been to Rome has had Roman cuisine. Most of the famous foods of Rome, such as pizza, fettuccine alfredo or spaghetti carbonara, either were invented for tourists or came from elsewhere.

The Romans eat in a way that is nearly hidden from the tourist. Their meals are heavy on offal and first-course pasta dishes.

Italian cookbook author Anna Gosetti della Salda boldly declared “la cucina romana doesn’t exist”, but I’m not sure I agree. She goes on to explain that it can’t be said to exist because “no Roman ever created those masterpieces of culinary art that are the pride of almost all other regional cuisines of Italy. Despite this the fact remains incontestable that you eat well in Rome and the food is good and almost everywhere.”

Paolo Monelli, who was one of Italy’s most distinguished journalists, was also honest in his appraisal of the cuisine of Rome, declaring it “the most plebeian that exists in the peninsula; flavourful, of course, aggressive, multicolored, but rural, created by the taste of goat-herders, of cowboys, buffalo herders, and the incivility of the recipes from the ghetto.”

The most succinct summation of la cucina romana, although insipid, was that of food writer Ada Boni who said that “la cucina romana è una cucina semplice, sana, nutrient e saporita” (Roman cuisine is a cuisine that is simple, healthy, nutritious and flavorful). A dish of pasta and offal would be an example.

‘Fifth’ quarter of the cow

Pride of place of a dish that strikes to the soul of Roman cuisine is rigatoni co’ la pajata, a unique recipe made from the small intestine of the suckling calf. In Romanesco dialect, rigatoni co’ la pajata (or pagliata) can be translated as rigatoni with chitterlings. It is probably the most unique dish of Rome utilizing a component of the quinto quarto, the “fifth” quarter of the cow (that is, the head, tail and offal).

It is without doubt a dish derived from cucina povera, the cuisine of the poor.

It is made from cow or calf chitterlings, that is, the duodenum, the small or first part of the intestine where the enzymatic breakdown of food occurs. Roman gourmets call for beef believing that beef is more flavorful than veal.

However, unique to the dish is the fact that although the intestine is washed and thoroughly cleaned, the chyme is not removed so when it is cooked there is a rich, creamy and slightly sour taste mixed with the tomatoes of the sauce. The chyme is the semiliquid mass of partially digested food that passes from the stomach through the pyloric sphincter into the duodenum of the cow.

The process of cleaning the duodendum is quite laborious because one does not want to lose the chyme, but that is the job of the butcher and the cook merely has to prepare the dish.

For four to six people you need 4 pounds of chitterlings. In the United States you will probably have to use pork chitterlings. Lardo is cured pork fatback (not lard, which is called strutto in Italian) and can be found in better supermarkets such as Whole Foods and in Italian markets. In the US, some domestic American companies are also making lardo.

Rigatoni con la Pagliata (Rigatoni with Chitterlings). Picture: REUTERS/Clifford A Wright

Rigatoni con la Pagliata (Rigatoni with Chitterlings)
Prep time: About 10 minutes
Cooking time: 3 3/4 hours
Total time: About 4 hours
Yield: 6 servings

One 5-pound package cleaned pork chitterlings, cut into 4-inch pieces
1 tablespoon pork lard or olive oil
1 medium onion, sliced
1 celery stalk, chopped
1/4 pound lardo, prosciutto fat or pancetta, or a mixture of the three, chopped
1 large garlic clove, finely chopped
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
2 cups dry white wine, separated
One 28-ounce can tomato purée
Bouquet garni, tied with kitchen twine, consisting of 10 sprigs parsley and 1 sprig rosemary
1 clove
2 1/2 cups water
1 pound rigatoni
1/4 pound Parmigiano-Reggiano or pecorino romano cheese, freshly grated

1. Place the pork chitterlings in a stockpot, cover with water, bring to a boil over high heat and boil for 1 hour. Drain; once cool, cut into pieces half the size and set aside until needed.
2. In a large flameproof casserole, melt the lard over medium heat, then cook, stirring, the onion, celery, lardo and garlic until soft, about 6 minutes. Add the chitterlings, season with salt and pepper, and cook, stirring, until sticking to the bottom and turning light golden, about 6 minutes. Add 1 cup wine. Once the wine evaporates, add the tomato purée, bouquet garni, clove and water. When the liquid starts to bubble, reduce the heat to low and simmer, stirring and moistening with the remaining white wine until tender, about 2 to 2 1/2 hours. The sauce should be dense though, so continue cooking if necessary.
3. Bring a large pot of water to a rolling boil, salt abundantly, then cook the pasta, stirring occasionally, until the pasta is al dente. Drain without rinsing. Transfer the pasta to a large serving platter and spoon the chitterlings and sauce over it; serve with the cheese. – Copyright Clifford A. Wright via Zester Daily and Reuters Media Express


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