Michael Olivier reviews: Perdeberg The G.O.A.T. Old Vines Chenin Blanc 2023
Michael Olivier is one of South Africa's leading experts on wine; author of six books and recipient of a Lifetime Achievement Award from Eat Out magazine. Read his review of Perdeberg The G.O.A.T. Old Vines Chenin Blanc 2023.
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Perdeberg The G. O. A. T. Old Vines Chenin Blanc 2023
By Michael Olivier
Perdeberg Winery is in the folds of the lower slopes of the Paardeberg West of Paarl. The Grape Producers farm from a broad stretch of the wine country. Most of the vines are dryland bush vines which use only rainfall for irrigation. This means small berries on small bunches with a high skin to juice ratio. This give greater flavour to the final wine.
The 2023 vintage started with growing early in a dry Spring. This was followed by good rains in December and a good ripening period with the grapes ripening 10 days earlier than in the previous year. The grapes for this wine came from a 35-year-old vineyard in Agter Paarl, planted in decomposed granite.
Once in the cellar, after destemming and crushing, the free run juice was run off an taken to stainless steel tanks for fermentation. 10% of the juice was taken to 500 litre French Oak barrels for later blending back to the tank wine. Natural vineyard yeasts were sued. The wine was left on its fine lees for 6 months, resulting in a broader more heavyweight palate.
Pour
From a Burgundy shaped clear glass bottle, closed with a screw cap. The label is witty and amusing. The letter O of GOAT is cut out giving you a look through the bottle onto the inside of the back label where you see Jan van Riebeek who brought Chenin Blanc to the Cape in the early days of the Dutch settlement. In the glass the wine is a pale straw in colour, and gem bright. Th aromatics are of green apple, crisp and dry, sliced fresh pear and white guava. There is a lovely line of acidity from entry to the long and gently waning aftertaste where the oak and its concomitant spice and vanilla are in undertow. Rich, plump and generous. The wine will reward you after two years of cool cellaring.
Pair
While the Perdeberg The G. O. A. T. Old Vines Chenin Blanc 2023 is excellent for any time drinking, it is a perfect partner to a well-cooked meal. Very good with braaied game fish like Yellowtail or Swordfish and served with a lemon and herb butter. Great with a butter roasted Organic Chicken stuffed with preserved lemon and Dalewood Fromage Feta and served with rustly roast potatoes and a large jug of real gravy.
About Michael Olivier
As a young aspiring chef, Michael laid a solid foundation for his career at the Cordon Bleu Cooking School in London. Over the next 30 years he had a series of high-profile hospitality management posts, was the Public Relations Manager for Boschendal and ran three successful restaurants in the Cape, one of which, Parks, featured in the national top 10 restaurants.
Michael is a family man, author and broadcaster, and lives in Somerset West, Cape Town. A lifetime devoted to the promotion and appreciation of the South African wine and food industry has earned him many accolades, including the Lannice Snyman Lifetime Achievement Award at the 2013 Eat Out Awards. Michael continues to be prolific, informative, and entertaining on his wine and food
www.michaelolivier.co.za
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