The Farmerâs Dog, Jeremy Clarksonâs latest venture in Burford, England, attracted a massive queue of over 400 people for its opening. While the pubâs decor and menu offer typical British fare, its real draw is Clarkson himself. Despite the long wait and some service hiccups, fans were thrilled to visit.
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By Helen Chandler-Wilde
Driving through the Cotswolds in southwest England, you pass a pub every few minutes. Plenty have award-winning menus. Some are hundreds of years old or in the most picturesque locations. But only one has a queue of more than 400 people waiting outside: the Farmerâs Dog. Itâs the latest project from Jeremy Clarkson, and it opened on Friday in Burford, Oxfordshire. Â ___STEADY_PAYWALL___
Itâs another frenzied event in a summer thatâs generated booking hysteria in multiple areasâwhether for a ticket to Taylor Swiftâs Eras Tour or a table for the 30th anniversary celebrations at St John restaurant. (Along with dishes from their original menu, the operators are bringing back their 1994 prices; seats sold out immediately.)
The Queue
Swifties notwithstanding, Clarkson has a hardcore fan base. Bethany Ailing, 28, stood in the queue for hours before the pub opened, in the hope of getting more than a pint and a sausage roll. She was desperate to catch a glimpse of Clarkson. âI just love him,â says Ailing, whoâd driven more than two hours from Peterborough. âI even had a Jeremy Clarkson-themed birthday party.â
After becoming internationally famous as a presenter for BBCâs Top Gear for over a decade, the 64-year-old hit new levels of visibility through the series Clarksonâs Farm on Amazon UK Prime, which follows his attempts to run a profitable farm in the Cotswolds. Clarksonâs TV persona has always been bombastic, the public fell for the humbled version they saw on the farm show, where he struggles with the hard labor of agriculture and the difficulties of making ends meet.
âHeâs done so much for farmers by showing how hard the job is,â says Chelsea Wills-Lock, a 32-year-old finance manager from Somerset who drove three hours to get to the pub.
No Coke, No Coffee
The Farmerâs Dog is the latest in a string of Clarksonâs expanding Cotswolds businesses; three seasons of Clarksonâs Farm have chronicled the business, including the launch of Diddly Squat Farm shop.
The pub was scheduled for a noon opening; by 9 a.m. a few dozen people had lined up. An hour later, the queue had stretched as far as the eye could see.
Rather using resources for a well-organized launchâitâs been reported that the presenterâs been paid ÂŁ200 million for Clarksonâs Farmâthe team followed a strategy similar to his other projects: opening with little notice before things are fully ready. Which, of course, makes for better television. While we waited, I watched T-shirts and other merchandise be unpacked and signs being painted and hung.
Clarkson himself arrived about an hour and a half before the pub opened (in a white Jaguar F-Type, for those taking notes). He emerged with his land agent Charlie Ireland (a co-star on the show), each carrying a box of mushrooms and tailed by TV camera crews.
At noon on the dot, Clarkson threw open the door and declared the pub open. Flanked by other cast membersâIreland, Clarksonâs partner Lisa Hogan, farm manager Kaleb Cooper and dry stone wall specialist Gerald Cooper, whose incomprehensible Oxfordshire accent provides much fun on the showâhe made an impromptu speech about the importance of supporting farmers.
Much of the food at the pub was grown on the farm, we learned, and everything is made from entirely British ingredients. If they canât get it here, they simply donât sell itâso thereâs no Coca-Cola, no orange juice and no coffee. The only exception Clarkson allows is tonic water, given the essential ingredient quinine canât be grown in the UK, and Clarkson deemed it beyond the pale to run a pub that canât serve a gin and tonic.
So, Whatâs It Like to Eat There?
I got a table on the large terrace overlooking the Cotswold hills. Itâs scenic, but the peace is slightly spoiled by background traffic; perhaps thatâs appropriate given Clarksonâs love of the internal combustion engine. Inside, the dining room decor feels like an afterthought; thereâs none of the richness or character typical for a traditional Cotswolds pub. There are only a few show references, like a corner painted with farm animals.
The menu â currently limited to four options for starters and five for mains â sticks to safe British pub classics like bangers and mash and steak pies.
We snacked on a sausage roll and pickled egg, washed down with Hawkstone aleâanother Clarkson business. The sausage roll was excellent: a huge, thick hunk of meat, presumably farm-raised, encased in prettily scored flaky pastry. Then came the starters, or at least, one did: a nice but unremarkable chicken liver pĂątĂ©. The other never arrived.
Main courses were steak pie, made with similarly brilliant pastry, though rolled too thick, and a very rich cheddar and root vegetable savory crumble. For dessert, we ordered apple crumble with custard and a slice of blackberry cheesecake. What we got was cheesecake with custard and unadorned crumble. (They were both still good.) All in all the check was around ÂŁ100, a now standard price for a pub lunch.
Itâs a decent pub lunch, with a few standout dishes, namely the sausage roll. The rest was no better than you could get at a dozen other pubs in the area.
But the food is beside the point for a majority of people, who were there for the opening and proximity to Clarkson. Dutifully, the showâs star and Hogan walked around, shaking hands. Despite the queue, that seemed enough to make the superfans happy. If the ongoing success of the Diddly Squat Farm shopâand the bumper viewing figures for the Amazon showâis anything to go by, the pub will be busy.
After lunch, I went back to the pub where I stayed the night before, the Old Swan Inn, in the beautiful thatch-roofed village of Minster Lovell. Itâs over half a millennium old, cozy with exposed fireplaces and traditional dried hops and copper pots for decor. The food is excellent, and it even serves Clarksonâs Hawkstone beer. Instead of a busy road, all you can hear is the trickle of the River Windrush. Most important, there was no queue. I know where Iâll eat next time Iâm in the area.
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