There is a new craze taking off in South Africa, its called ‘Adventure racing’. These long distance stage races are fast becoming the most popular way for city-bound Africans to challenge themselves outside of their concrete jungle comfort zones. And who can blame the growing list of adventure race enthusiasts – exploring some of Africa’s most beautiful and diverse landscapes on your own steam is not only a great way to experience Africa’s hidden treasures but an exciting new means to challenge and invigorate oneself. JB
In the Nama language, Namibia means ‘an area where there is nothing’. It is so, but also not. Where there is seemingly nothing, there is also much, if we choose to unlock our senses. Places are not empty; they may just not contain what we are accustomed to seeing and experiencing. I saw more stars in one evening than in a year in the city. I heard a stillness that is absent in any populated place. I smelt an earthiness that percolates from profound aridness, and felt a vastness that stretches from horizon to horizon, earth to sky. In a place where there is nothing we are familiar with, we may discover both new things, and ourselves, in novel ways.
The Nama were correct in one aspect, however; people are nowhere to be found South of Windhoek (22°35’S). With a rural population density of less than one person per square kilometre, Southern Namibia is almost the most un-populated tract of land on the planet.
Many big ideas that become reality are often the result of stubborn perseverance and the will of individuals. The founder of the Namib Quest (NQ) is Tinus Hansen of African Extreme Promotions (AEP). Tinus is a big man in many ways. He could probably play open-side flank for the national rugby team. He is also a professional big game hunter and a pretty fine wildlife photographer. An enduring memory of Big Tinus is seeing him clearing dinner plates stacked with gleaming white oxtail bones. He knows the way to the field kitchen. He’s a hands-on guy, doing whatever it takes to make his guests feel at home, have fun and enjoy the event.
Like many similar MTB events, the Namib Quest had an embryonic start four years ago with a coterie of hardened mountain bikers breaking ground to establish a Namibian flavoured international event. It has become the foremost Namibian Stage Event, growing by 250% since 2011. An increasing number of South African adventurers are crossing the border to enjoy its offerings.
The 2014 Namib Quest was staged over six days, from 18 to 23 May. As has become customary, it starts in Windhoek and finishes on the shores of the Atlantic Ocean in Swakopmund. It meanders some 460km north and south of a line between the two towns. Seventy-odd mountain bikers took off into the crisp clear morning on the Sunday, heading west.
Almost 95% of the route’s 6 000 meters of ascent is found on the first four stages, covering about 260km. The route is a combination of gravel roads, dual tracks and cattle paths. The final day does have a section of tar into Swakopmund.
I expected sand, lots of sand. Mountain bikers don’t ordinarily like sand. I was pleasantly surprised, there was perhaps only six kilometres of sand. For the rest, there is lots of shale, gravel and loose rocks. It was a lot rockier than I expected, with some ascents and descents reminding me of a stage event held in the Karoo. There was one downhill portage on day three, about three hundred meters. The locals tell me that they know of only one rider who has ever stayed in the saddle here. Stage three was one of the most pleasurable I have ever encountered; glorious scenery, winding paths, stiff cheeky climbs and sweeping rugged descents. It is a whooping day.
But back to stage two. It ended on a plateau overlooking the entire world, showing off the vast emptiness of craggy mountains and listless shrubs. We were treated to an early afternoon winter thunderstorm with pelting rain, a smattering of hail and tent wrenching gusts. A life-long memory.
The first four stages varied in distance between about 65km and 75km. They all felt just right. Day five was a 42km time trail with teams starting at two-minute intervals. There were lots of smiles at the finish line. I also saw a mountain bike with tri-bars for the first time. These Namibians take some things seriously.
Day six was a monster 150km. We started in two groups, thirty minutes apart. The upside was the downside; we descended about 900m with only about 200m of climbing, averaging 34km per hour. What a blast.
The route traverses dozens of farms. Yes, tough people do farm out here, mainly beef and game. There are numerous farm gates that require opening and closing, without fail, during the first four days. If one is in a group, one takes turns to either open or close, race off or catch up. Rather than being a hassle, it makes for added interest.
Each stage was served by two refreshment stations, little oases in an empty land. There was always enough. Tented villages were placed near farm houses, farm dams or alongside farm roads. Those familiar with South African stage events will be pleased to know that tents are about 50% larger than the micro-igloos we’re accustomed to.
There is no fixed infrastructure at any of the overnight camps; everything has to be brought in, from power to water – whether drinking or washing. Field kitchens provide three meals a day. The daily bacon and eggs were like a miracle event. Night time saw huge bonfires light up the sky, with crackling logs dragged out of the veld. Bean bags scattered around fires were salve for sore legs and chaffed bums. A back-of-a-bakkie bar service did brisk trade; Windhoek Lager from the major sponsor, vats of Cape red wine and even brandy and coke for some.
Loos and showers? No horrible porter loos. Very civilised, wheeled chemical toilets. Showers were mostly warm or even hot. I generally took a cold shower as the days were warm. Day four started off under a cloak of frost and while the coldest day, it starts off with a 400m climb so no layers were needed.
While the Namib Quest is a stage event typified by the two-person team format, there is sufficient flexibility that caters for both solo riders and support packages. Family and friends are encouraged to follow participants and stay over in the tented camps.
There must be mention of the hundreds of ‘koringkrieke’; dung beetle sized bugs, but with jacked up rear legs and a nasty looking appearance. I could not discover the English name while at the event, but I believe they are armoured ground crickets. They are cannibals, but are harmless to humans.
I completed the NQ in a mixed team. I took to the field with my beloved Niner Air9 Carbon RDO in bright green, and a carbon Lefty. My team mate was on a Scott RC900. Both bikes have 2 x 10 drivetrains with 26/39 chainrings. We were riding two of only six hard tails. There were two 26’ers. Shame. One Tandem completed the field.
The only mechanical incident we faced was a simultaneous snake bite, a sidewall cut and bent rim to my bike’s rear wheel, on stage two. Two plugs and a sealant top up got us going within eight minutes. Those plugs stayed tight as a dollar in a Scotsman’s wallet for four and a half stages.
Tubeless tyres with sealant were invented for stages one to five. Devil thorns and camel thorns abound, in addition to rocks and shale. Tubed tyres would make for long and cursed days.
South Africans travelled from Gauteng, White River, Stellenbosch, the Drakensberg, Ballito and elsewhere. It is a long drive, even via the Trans-Kalahari through Botswana. A few South Africans flew in, but that too has logistical challenges, as does any far-flung and point-to-point event.
Perhaps the most instructive assessment of an event is whether I would ‘do it again’. Yes, perhaps not next year, but in a year or two I would certainly line up at the Windhoek Golf Club for a race to the mists of Swakopmund.
Colin Donian
