Chris Duncan is a South African abroad, currently plying his trade in the northern parts of Nigeria. In his latest entry Duncan can’t wait to head back home for the festive season but leaves with a mood of uncertainty in the air. This all born from a separatist protest following the imprisonment of one of their leaders, while the fuel scarcity saga sees cars left overnight at garages in the hope of a refill. And while South Africa might not have the same problems, it still has concerns of its own. By the by, this is Africa. – Stuart Lowman
By Chris Duncan
Meeting out by the pool on hot sunny Sunday afternoon for a beer and a snack we could not help but notice the ominous grey clouds moving in from the east reminding me of those afternoon thunderstorms of the Highveld. Overhead a pair of hawks floated in the thermals together with a vulture or two much higher up. The rainy season is over and we reckoned it would not rain or if it did it would just be a few drops.
Well it started as a few drops and we remained out on the patio believing it would soon pass. Large cold drops fell, it was at first quite refreshing but then the heavens opened unleashing heavy driving rain earthward. We beat a hasty retreat to shelter but with the rain swirling in from all around as the wind increased in speed we were soon drenched. The nice thing about being drenched here is that it is not cold and your clothes dry quickly.
At the same time the engineering department had emptied the pool and were cleaning it. Rolls of electric cable were spread out and some power tools in use. Unconcerned by the downpour they continued their labours until I saw one leaping back from a plug, a shocking experience he was having and they then beat a hasty retreat too. As much as I take HSE seriously here they do not seem to understand it or pay it merely lip service.
Meanwhile the mood of uncertainty continues. Recently we have seen protests by pro Biafran separatists over the imprisonment of one of their leaders with a strong reaction by the police who are everywhere. Today has seen a large gathering on the polo field commemorating those killed in the recent run up to the election, it started with a sound check at five this morning which was my early morning call as a sea of people dressed in black attended the memorial – Black Monday it has been dubbed. Fortunately it passed peacefully.
Then once again there is a fuel scarcity with the Federal government withholding fuel subsidies to the importers who withhold supply leading to endless queues of hopefuls at filling stations which have fuel. Cars are left in the queue overnight as motorists wait patiently. Of course the black market in fuel is booming as fuel is siphoned off and sold at exorbitant prices to those who desperately need it. It is needed not only for vehicles but to run their generators too.
The tanker drivers were recently on strike again and with dangerously low diesel levels a tanker arrived on a weekend which is not allowed and typically the invoiced amount in liters was short delivered, siphoned off on route no doubt. Lots of shouting and arm waving took place and the much needed delivery finally accepted with a few adjustments made.
There are no working refineries in Nigeria with its crude oil being exported and returned as refined products – the old African story of resources being exported to return as manufactured products. Roll on the Chinese.
The low oil price continues to frustrate business, accounts not being paid, tight cash flows and austerity all round. The competition continues to slash rates leading to tremendous downward pressure on ours.
These are just our some of our day to day challenges which can be overcome with a large dose of African patience but for some their patience is running out.
Another challenge is the arrival of the Harmattan, the fine dust laden cool wind blowing off the Sahara. Its arrival sees the locals fall ill with chest and throat complaints, out come jerseys and scarves as they complain about the chill in the air. It has seemed to have arrived with vengeance this year and much earlier I am told, today’s visibility is less than a kilometer as the eerie white haze hangs in the air. No helicopters are flying to and from offshore with the thick haze ruling flying out. There must be a lot of frustrated offshore workers out there right now as their travel plans are disrupted.
The Yuletide (as they call it here) approaches the last business rush of the year for the next two weeks before the citizens depart to their rural villages to be with their families over this time. The Mall has a Christmas tree and decorations displayed; last week was black Friday shopping with the Spar being mobbed by bargain hunters as we fought our way through them making our weekly purchases for our weekend meals together.
A guest returned from Scotland recently brought with him a tinned Haggis which was tasty enough. Making do with what is available champit tatties where produced from a box of dried potato, neaps turned into tinned peas but at least the whisky was genuine. Improvisation and fast food, Nigerian style!
With last Thursday being Thanksgiving Day I invited Doug and Andre over for dinner – not turkey but a roast chicken sufficed finished off with apple pie and cream, a pleasant evening was enjoyed by all. It was also the first time that I have partaken in a Thanksgiving meal.
Home is beckoning, less than three weeks to go and I am looking forward to it. Christmas at home, I vowed not be here for this one as last year was most painful as I hung about a nearly empty hotel.
Family, friends, the dogs and a braai or two – a much looked forward to recharge of the batteries for a fresh new year.
