Wine guru Carrie Adams sits down with Iona managing director Andrew Gunn, discussing the first wine which was produced on the farm 21 years ago, some magic memories and what lies ahead for the farm.
Andrew Gunn on merging his wifeās farm into Iona
Iona Sauvignon Blanc turned 21 this month. Yet, if you go back, we have two celebrations, really. It has been 25 years since I bought the farm in June 1997, and we made our first wine in 2001. Iona sits on top of the mountain on the southerly boundary of the Elgin Valley. Itās totally isolated. Rosieās property is about three kilometres north, and about 150 metres lower. Originally, when she came to me for some advice, I told her to plant 10 acres of vineyards. She would make a reasonable living if she got somebody to make her wine for her. She didnāt have the capital for a cellar. So, when we got married, we decided there was no point in her putting up the cellar. We would incorporate her grapes into Iona. To this day, 15% of Iona comes out of Rosieās farm. Sheās a sculptor. Her other great passion is farming. She has embraced biodynamic and organic farming and, although sheās not certified, she does everything according to biodynamic and organic principles.
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On Rosieās solace wine
It is a real reflection of her personality, her farming practices, and also our winemaker. Heās a wonderful man. Solace is made 100% naturally, no enzymes, no yeast. It is taking the vineyard and putting it into the bottle at minimum use of wood. All our Chardonnay and our Pinot Noir are all natural ferments. You cannot really take a chance with Sauvignon Blanc. Some of the Sauvignon Blanc is fermented in 300-litre barrels. We have Semillon in all our Sauvignon because originally when I planted the farm, a professor advised me to plant Semillon and Sauvignon. If you produce Sauvignon in hot areas, you have to do a lot of manipulation in the cellar and youāve got to pick early. Youāve got to add sugar to sweeten the wine. It is a bit like making a fruit salad; if you make a fruit salad from unripe fruit, itās going to be inedible. Youāve got to add sugar to make it palatable. I think great Sauvignon is underrated.
On one of the most memorable moments on the farm
There are 20 families living on the farm. I would say itās my interaction with the people. Itās like a small community, a family. Last year when I came back from a trip, my foreman was at the pick and go, and as I walked up, he gave me the biggest hug and said: āIām so pleased that youāre back.ā Thatās special and was probably one of the most memorable moments. Itās that sense of family we have. It is one of the things we have in South Africa, which the powers are trying their best to undermine and dismantle. But I think South Africans will pull through. South Africans love each other and thatās the wonderful thing about living here.
On the future of Iona
Iāve got a couple of friends and when we meet, we talk about life and the universe. Theyāve always told me I have to find a successor. I brought in a general manager but it didnāt work. I shouldnāt have parachuted someone from the outside. Rosie is the successor. Sheāll be brilliant at it. Sheās quite a few years younger than me, sheās got good energy, she loves farming, she loves the people and the people respect her. The best is yet to come as the vineyards get older. It is very exciting and I have no intention of giving it up.
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